HISAKA · ONAGI VALLEY · SINCE 1958
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35°14′N HISAKA, ONAGI VALLEY

Twenty doorsin the cedars, abovethe autumn river

ARRIVEThu 15 Oct
DEPARTMon 19 Oct
GUESTS2 adults
ROOMEngawa Room
VIEW AVAILABILITY
ITHE ORIGIN

In 1958 Chiyo Arimura bought a charcoal-burner’s hut nobody wanted, above a gorge everyone called too steep. She built four rooms, a kitchen and a stone stair down to the spring. Her grandchildren run the house now: twenty rooms, the same hundred and eight steps, and a kitchen that still waits to see what the mountain gives up that morning.

Rin & Kenji ArimuraThird generation, still bickering over the pickles
Cedar bath facing the maples
fig. 1ROOM 7, AFTER THE FIRST FROST

Chiyo's rules, still followed: no televisions, paper screens in place of blinds, and a bath that looks out to the maples instead of the wall.

Matcha, a persimmon and the key to room 7
20keys, spread across two cedar wings
108stone steps down from the gate to the river
3hot springs, rising from the rock at 61°C
1958the year Chiyo first bought the hut
IISTAYS & SUITES

Five ways to waketo the sound of the river

Twenty keys, no two rooms the same, every one close enough to hear the river. Tatami from the weavers in Hisaka, bowls from the Kosaka kiln, and paper screens in place of blinds.

01 / 05
Drag
IIIA DAY INSIDE KAEDEYU

From the dawn soak to thelast lantern of the night

Take your time scrolling. The house runs on its own clock, and the light does most of the work.

DAWN
0610
    01

    Down the gorge by boat

    Genji poles the boat out at ten. The Kurase landing, Kogane Pool and a third bend he refuses to name to anyone. A stop at each, lunch eaten aboard, back on land by three.

    LENGTH10:00 to 15:00
    BOATEight metres, cedar-planked
    FROM¥24,000 a guest
    02

    Midday at Tamaki Brewery

    Fifteen minutes down the valley, a sake house the Tamaki family has run since 1891. One long table beneath the ginkgo tree, four sakes, and a lunch that often turns into dinner.

    LENGTH12:30 until late
    TRANSFERIncluded
    FROM¥18,000 a guest
    03

    The persimmon eaves

    Pick alongside Fumi at eight, while the frost is still on. Learn why the Onagi persimmon is peeled and hung to sweeten, then string your own under Chiyo's eaves and take a box home.

    LENGTHThree hours
    SEASONOctober to December
    FROM¥9,500 a guest
    VIITHE PHOTO WALL

    Pictures wenever quite sent

    Twelve shots from a single autumn. Click any to look closer; arrow keys move you between them.

    VIIIPRAISE FOR THE INN
    “The rare inn where the dinner alone is worth the journey, and the baths are why you stay a week longer than planned.”
    The Valley ReviewBest New Stays, 2026
    “Nobody warns you that the hundred and eight steps are the whole point. By day three you stop counting them and start timing your soak.”
    Slow Road JournalThe Mountain Issue, 2025
    “Sayo cooks only what the foragers bring down, nothing else. Some nights that's nine courses. Some nights it's a single perfect river fish.”
    The Quiet TableFifty Tables Worth the Trip
    “Twenty rooms, no televisions, and a river standing in for a lullaby. We still haven't stopped recommending it.”
    Field & EmberSmall Inns Worth Knowing, 2026
    IXRESERVE

    Pick your nights.We'll keep the bath warm.

    ARRIVEThu 15 Oct
    DEPARTMon 19 Oct
    4 nights
    ROOMSleeps 3 · Maples and gorge
    GUESTS
    2 adults
    4 nights, dinner and breakfast¥317,000
    XGETTING HERE

    At the top of the valley road,where the tarmac turns to cedar

    THE BOATMAN'S PATH Mount Onagi ONAGI VALLEY HisakaVILLAGE · 8 MIN MizuharaSTATION · 15 MIN Tamaki BrewerySAKE · 15 MIN Kurase landingBOATS · 20 MIN Onagi FallsWATERFALL · 35 MIN NanaseAIRPORT NSE · 80 MIN Kogane PoolSWIMMING · 30 MIN KaedeyuTHE INN
    KaedeyuYou are here
    • 01
      Hisaka villageOn foot, along the old cedar path
      8 min
    • 02
      Mizuhara stationOur car meets every express
      15 min
    • 03
      Tamaki BreweryBy car, past the rice terraces
      15 min
    • 04
      Kurase boat landingBy boat, around the first bend
      20 min
    • 05
      Onagi FallsThe gorge path, best in late afternoon
      35 min
    • 06
      Nanase Airport · NSEWe collect you, in the old wagon or the newer one
      80 min
    KAEDEYU

    7 Kurase-dani, Hisaka
    629-0417 Onagi Valley

    ARRIVING

    Express trains reach Mizuhara from the city every hour, all through the year. The final car up from Mizuhara station departs at 19:40.